Quaint, quiet, and oh so dreamy, Milos was a wonderful surprise.
Post-retreat, my boyfriend Thomas and I decided to hop over to the island of Milos so to get some final R&R before heading home. Just from what I saw on the short drive from the airport to our hotel in Pollonia, I knew we had made the perfect choice.
Where To Stay on Milos
The southwestern most island in the Cyclades, Milos is only 61.83 mi2 and home to just under 5,000 people. Milos has seven towns/villages:
The port town where all of the ferries come in. This town is probably the busiest on Milos and is a great place to go for shopping, restaurants, and nightlife.
Is a small hilltop town known for it's incredible sunset views, There are some shops and restaurants but when we drove through mid-day on a Monday, it was eerily quiet.
Situated in the northwest of the island, Pollonia is a small fisherman's village decorated with a restaurant-lined pier and a sleepy white sand beach. There are a couple of shops in town to get souvenirs and a cave winery (YAS - more on that below), but otherwise this is the perfect place to rejuvenate by relaxing all day on the beach in between visits to the pier for some food or a mid-day espresso.
Also, there are cats EVERYWHERE, so as cat-lovers we were in heaven. :)
We stayed at the Aigialia hotel which was right on the beach and situated perfectly to watch the sunrise in the mornings. In the evenings we had just a 30 second walk around the corner to watch the sunset. Large rock formations extended from the beach into the clear blue water, creating a perfect place to relax, swim, or practice yoga in the sunshine.
Klima, Mandrakia, Fourkovouni, and Fryopatomas
These are the 4 small fisherman villages of the islands and are known for their colorful buildings and traditional characteristics.
Best Adventures on Milos
Milos is known for its unique and stunning beaches, clear blue water, and coves like the old pirate hideout of Kleftico.
Rent an ATV or Scooter
We only had 2 full days on Milos and wanted to be able to explore at our own leisurely pace. So, the first day we rented a motor bike. Recently a law was passed that you need an international license to rent a bike or ATV, but we got lucky and someone allowed us to rent anyway. The 5 other places we called though were strict, so I recommend getting an international license before you go.
Go Beach Hopping
Some of the beaches of Milos can only be accessed by boat but many of them can be seen by taking an ATV or motor bike close by and then walking down. We used our motor bike to explore just a couple of the many amazing beaches on Milos. I'm telling you, we definitely could've used at least 2 more days on the island.
The first beach we went to is called Papafragas. This beach consists of an enormous cave that is carved out of the cliffside to create a large natural swimming pool. You have to hike down a small path to get to the tiny strip of sand that forms its beach. Here you can relax, swim and float in the blue crystalline waters, and explore the smaller caves within the enclosure.
Sarakiniko was the next beach on our adventure and for a moment I thought we literally had landed on the moon. Greyish-white volcanic rock that has been shaped by the incoming waves has created stunning and unique sculptures along the shoreline. The smooth rock surrounding the small beach was perfect to relax on and the small cove allows for a perfect place to swim and float around.
One of the "beaches" that is only accessible by boat. Sikia is best described as a sea cave with a collapsed roof.
Trees surround this beach and you can look out at the clear blue water as you eat and drink at the canteen on the sand.
A stunning beach in the southern part of the island, Firiplaka has a long stretch of sand and chairs you can lounge around on.
Kleftico (see below)
Thermal Water Beaches
There are thermal hot springs scattered all over the island, inland as well as at the sea. The volcanic nature of Milos means warm soil, water vapors, and thermal wells that create healing waters that have long been used for medicinal purposes. Find your way to one of the many beaches hosting these therapeutic waters for a nice recovery from your adventures.
Take a boat tour
Taking a boat tour to Kleftico, the old pirates' hideout, is something we didn't have time for but that I will 100% be going back for.
You can take a day long excursion or a half day trip on a boat that will take you to Kleftico for a couple of hours of swimming and snorkeling around the cove. On the way they also take you to some of the other beaches that are only accessible by boat.
Enjoy local food and wine
Milos is famous for its fresh seafood but as vegans we were very pleasantly surprised, as this was the first island to seem to know what vegan was!
During our stay in Pollonia, we ate at almost every single restaurant on the pier. With our dietary restrictions, there was about 5 things on each menu that we could have, but it was still fun to try out the different flavors at each place.
Just a few of the restaurants along the strip are open for breakfast. We enjoyed our breakfast both mornings at Anezina's. They had the amazing smoothies and a ton of different food options, including sweet and savory crepes, pancakes, some egg dishes, and LOTS of other sweets.
We also went back twice for lunch to Alki's Pizza Cafe, where we found probably our favorite meal in our whole time in Greece: big, yummy vegetarian pita sandwiches for just 2.50 euro, vegetarian pizza, my new favorite- eggplant salad (basically Baba Ganoush) with warm pita, and locally made Rose.
Dinnertime was stunning in Pollonia, it's the perfect place to sit and watch the sunset over the small floating boats and characteristic white and blue homes to the west.
Our first meal on Milos was dinner at Rifaki, which has an entire page of it's menu just for vegans. WOOHOO! We had eggplant salad with warm pita, a potato salad, and vegan orzo salad.
Visit The Cave Winery
Konstantakis is the only winery on the entire island and my wine-loving self was very excited when I saw signs pointing in its direction.
We walked up there around 8pm as the sun was starting to go down. The light on the vines was beautiful and the tastings we were greeted with beyond met my expectations. The man pouring us our tastings told us the story of how his family started making homemade wine on that same farm long ago. About 6 years ago, the build the winery into a large natural cave on the property. They also have guesthouses on the property that you can stay at. The place was charming and we bought enough wine to have to buy another small suitcase in the airport on our way home (OOPS).
If we had one more day....
I would have loved to explore some more of the beaches and the hot springs, and of course, Kleftico!
We hope this guide is helpful for your first visit to Milos! If you have more to add to the conversation, leave a comment and help a fellow traveling yogi out!